by Doug Mellgren 3. October 2025
A winter morning in Tromsø
It’s early morning and I can see my frosty breath as I walk through Tromsø, Norway’s main Arctic city. I’m headed for an eight-hour boat tour to watch wild whales. I’m excited about seeing humpback whales, orcas and other Arctic wildlife, but wonder what a boat ride in the cold and dark polar night is like. However, whale watching is high on my bucket list and tops my list of things to do in Tromsø in the winter, so here we go!
It’s crisp, yet not as icy cold as I expected for a city that is 350 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. It turns out that the warm Gulf Stream keeps the fjords here ice-free. The polar night is very dark, but city lights reflect off the fresh snow to cut through the blackness.
Onboard the catamaran: Settling in before departure
At the wharf, I spot the blue and white whale safari boat. It’s more like a small ship: A catamaran, with twin hulls, which, I learn, makes it a very fast, stable and comfortable way to reach wild whales in their natural habitat.
A friendly crewman greets me on the dock and sends me up the frosty gangplank. I’m early, so I have most of the spacious and luxurious cabin to myself. It’s warm and cozy. There are no assigned seats, so I claim a spot at a big table by one of the panoramic windows. I grab a free cup of coffee from the snack bar, and sip it as other bundled up guests begin to arrive for the Tromsø whale safari experience. I’ll have breakfast underway, since the trip to the feeding ground takes a couple hours.
The whale watching adventure begins
At 0830 sharp, the boat tour starts from Tromsø. There are many guests on board but it doesn’t feel overcrowded. The captain welcomes us aboard and explains our route. After a brief, recorded safety on board message, the English-speaking guides take over. They are very friendly, funny, enthusiastic and informative, urging us to ask questions. They seem eager as we are to spot Arctic wildlife and happily share their knowledge of the region and its eco-system. They give us a brief run-down of what to expect in addition to whales: frozen Arctic landscapes, northern Norway fjords, magical blue winter light, and wildlife; maybe even eagles, porpoises, wild reindeer and harbor seals. The guides say midwinter, right now, is the best time of year for a whale watching boat tour from Tromsø.
It’s still dark outside, so I get some food and more coffee from the snack bar and use the boat’s free wi-fi to check emails and news.
Exploring Arctic landscapes
The sun does not rise here at this time of year, but the sky slowly brightens with the magical blue glow of Polar Night. The scenery alone is worth the trip, with snowcapped mountains bursting from the sea. The crew points out an eagle circling the boat, and then wild reindeer grazing on the shore of an island.
We pass the Lyngen Alps, a mountain range offering some of Norway’s most stunning landscapes, made even more magical by the blue light.
The guides use this transport stage to share their passion for Tromsø, the region and wildlife. They say humpback whales, which can be 17 meters long and weigh 40 tons, migrate thousands of kilometers to feed on herring off Norway during the winter. Like orcas, they are drawn to the waters near Skjervøy, which are now packed with herring.
Approaching the whales – A respectful whale safari
The captain announces that we are approaching Skjervøy and expect to see whales.
Guests hurriedly pull on winter gear and race out onto the large viewing deck. There are a lot of people but plenty of room, and everyone makes space at the railings for others, especially for children on this family-friendly whale safari.
The captain puts the specially-designed engines in quiet mode to avoid disturbing the wildlife. We glide in near silence. The guides say the special engines are part of efforts to ensure sustainable and ethical whale safaris.
Close encounters with orcas and humpbacks
“Over there!” A pod of orcas skims the surface, their black dorsal fins slicing through the water. We are all thrilled as we stop to admire them. They swim near the motionless boat, showing off their arched backs and tall fins as they dive for herring.
The captain soon spots the giant humpbacks. We approach slowly, quietly, almost stealthily. The excitement is electric on deck. The broad tailfin of a humpback rises high out of the water, a classic image of whales. A spout erupts from the blowhole of another whale. Then – jackpot – a humpback bursts out of the sea and slaps the water with its whole body in what’s called “breaching,” possibly part of its feeding technique, a way of communicating or both.
We enjoy up-close encounters with the wildlife. Humpbacks, orcas and Norwegian fishing boats all go after the same herring in peaceful coexistence, as they have for generations.
Heading back to Tromsø after an unforgettable whale safari
After a couple hours or so, we reluctantly set a course back to Tromsø. It’s been cold, so most of us head back into the cabin to warm up after unforgettable whale watching. The cabin is filled with happy, excited chatter.
As the blue glow fades into polar darkness, I buy a glass of wine from the snack bar, and sit looking at the pictures on my camera while I soak up the warmth of the cabin. What a day, or eight hours to be precise. This must be the most comfortable boat, with the most helpful crew and the friendliest guides ever, at least in my experience. The day was perfect, with nice weather, breathtaking scenery, loads of polar wildlife and good company.
This Tromsø whale safari was one of my best tours ever and a true one-in-a-lifetime experience.
