by Doug Mellgren 14. November 2025
A Northern Lights experience in Tromsø
It’s dark out there – the pitch black of the Arctic night, perfect for a Northern Lights experience in Tromsø. Inside the spacious lounge of this big, comfortable catamaran, it’s warm and cosy, with dimmed cabin lights and candles (battery operated for safety) on the tables.
Choosing a boat over a bus
Tromsø is a great place for a Northern Lights boat tour in Norway. After checking options, I picked a boat cruise with Rødne Fjord Cruise rather than a bus tour because I like having room to wander around freely inside the cabin and out on deck the whole time rather than be stuck in a seat. Also, I’d been on the same excellent boat for Rødne’s whale safari plus a sightseeing cruise around Tromsø, so there was no doubt.
Setting off into the Arctic night
The fast, modern boat whisks us away on a Northern Lights cruise from Tromsø, the main city of Norway’s Arctic, in the evening. We escape most of the urban light pollution. Even though we have yet to spot the dancing lights of the Aurora Borealis, I head out on deck in the brisk winter air. The Arctic skies are clear with an endless array of stars strewn across the dark heavens. There are a few lights from houses on the distant shores of the quiet fjord, but they are mere specks that do little to challenge the darkness of Polar Night.
Aurora Myths and Science
On the way out, our friendly, enthusiastic guide fills us in on the myths and facts about the Northern Lights. He also offers tips on photographing the Aurora from a boat. I’ve heard it all before, since I’m taking advantage of Rødne’s “Second Chance Guarantee”. It was rainy and cloudy last night, so we didn’t see the lights. But with the guarantee, we can try again tonight for free. Right now the odds of ticking “Amazing Northern Lights Show” off my bucket list seem pretty good.
I hadn’t expected rain in the dead of winter some 300 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, but the Gulf Stream gives Tromsø ice-free waters and a milder climate than you might expect on the northern fringe of the planet. Last night in the rain, I stayed in the warm cabin, enjoying the soothing, relaxing cruise in the dark with a glass of wine from the snack bar after a hectic day of sightseeing in Tromsø.
Myths abound about the enchanting Aurora. When it comes to the Northern Lights, science is even more astounding than mythology. The Aurora is caused by solar winds, travelling nearly 150 million kilometers from the sun. The colors, often green, depend on what gasses the solar winds hit on Earth.
Guided Insights and Aurora Forecast
The safari lasts up to 2.5 hours and starts at 21:00. Earlier, at the wharf in the center of town, I was welcomed aboard by a friendly crewman. Did he actually remember me from the night before or is the crew this friendly and welcoming to all guests? The lounge on the big boat is luxurious and inviting, with extremely comfortable seats centered on spacious tables. I grab a free cup of coffee from the snack bar, and find a spot inside the cabin.
Our guide tells us that scientists can predict the likelihood of a Northern Lights display based on solar activity, and that the crew knows the best places to watch the Aurora. According to an app forecasting the lights, he says, tonight is promising.
The Aurora Show
We glide in near silence through the darkness, and, after about half an hour, the guide calls our attention to the shimmering lights above us. I pull on my warm jacket, woolen hat and gloves to scurry out on deck. There are a lot of guests, but spacious decks allow everyone a good view without any jostling or crowding. Everyone graciously makes room for kids of all ages; some of the younger ones are up well past their bedtimes to trade sleeptime for lifetime memories.
The boat comes to a complete stop and we stare up in awe at the lights dancing in the sky, sometimes like swirling curtains of green light, then a twisting snake, followed by a patch of light, and then another curtain of brilliant green. I had seen the Aurora before, but only a slightly washed out version in a bright city without this deep darkness as a backdrop for a brilliant, vivid, dazzling, staggering and unforgettable light show.
It’s chilly but not frigid on deck. Amid “oohs” and “aahs” from my delighted fellow guests, I set up my camera on a tripod. I quickly discover that pictures are at least as good with my iPhone, which, unlike my older camera, compensates automatically for the blurring of the boat’s slight movement.
Returning to Tromsø
The intense show lasts a long time, with the captain even delaying our return to the city so we can enjoy the lights for as long as possible. Finally we have to return to port. Elated by the show, most of us stream into the cabin to warm up.
Back in my comfortable seat, I sip a glass of wine from the snack bar, and gaze out the boat’s panoramic windows. I can see the lights of Tromsø coming closer, including the iconic Arctic Cathedral, which is illuminated with its own light show. The lighted glass front of the A-frame cathedral is beautiful, but in my view, nothing beats nature and the Aurora Borealis for a light show.
The spotless, modern boat, the well-organized and friendly crew, the expert guides and the astonishing lights made for a perfect evening after a busy day.
Bucket list? Definitely checked!
Ready to chase the Aurora yourself?
Join Rødne’s Northern Lights cruise from Tromsø for a front-row seat to one of nature’s greatest shows.
